Amalia Ceccarelli Ridolfi. This name inspires our next evening, which will be focused on tradition, stock-fish and food culture. Prologue. It is the 1930s. Amalia is still a child when her mother Carmela goes to cook in manor houses. She follows her and observes all the actions that are performed in the big kitchens, intrigued by the huge pots that were constantly boiling.
She watches and learns, unaware that will become her job one day. In fact, after a few decades she finds herself cooking in a small boarding house in Falconara, which her son Lamberto Ridolfi takes over in the summer of 1965, the Pensione al Disco. These years are marked by full tables, satisfactions and new arrivals: Lamberto marries Angela, who will then become Amalia’s apprentice in the kitchen. In the midst of their business boom, the Ridolfi family decides to go one step further and inaugurate Villa Amalia in Falconara in 1981. Their success continues; the new restaurant quickly becomes a point of reference for gourmets in the Marche. Amalia’s cuisine attracts people from all over Italy. The restaurant is awarded with the Michelin Star status and many events draw national media, such as the visit of President Sandro Pertini, who eats 2 helpings of Ancona style stock-fish for dinner instead of his usual cup of milk. Amalia’s stock-fish is amazing, cooked according to tradition, on bamboo canes, with potatoes, tomato and milk, all covered in olive oil. Amalia has a big impact on Marche’s cuisine, but the keystone of our evening is her apprentice, Angela. After Amalia’s death, she takes the reins of the kitchen and maintains the high reputation of the family restaurant with her husband Lamberto, a real point of reference for sommeliers from all over the Marche and for the whole regional food and wine culture, and her son Fabrizio. Angela has celebrated 40 years of activity as a cook this year and she still has the same passion and desire to cook as she had when she started. Fabrizio is our new head waiter. For these and many other reasons we have invited Angela to cook Ancona style stock-fish according to the teachings of Amalia, as she has cooked it in the past 40 years.
Handing down tastes and knowledge is the only way to maintain tradition, which is essential for innovation, necessary to many people and reassuring for others.
Since we really like contrast, we have combined a piece of the Marche cuisine history with a young winery: Ca’Liptra, based in Cupramontana. Besides being our friends, Giovanni, Roberto, Antonella and Agostino are currently making wines that are among the most interesting in our wine scene. After producing some wine for a couple of years with the help of great Corrado Dottori, they had their first official vintage in 2012 and gained maturity as respected winemakers shortly after.
Cresc’tajat (traditional pasta)
Ancona style stock-fish
CA’ LIPTRA WINES
S.M. 21 2013
per info e prenotazioni.
338 4072435 Andrea
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